I am not able to decide as to what my KAILASH MANSAROVER YATRA was like…was it Magic, was it Supernatural
or was it purely Divine? It was certainly all rolled into one. It took me long
to come to this conclusion. It has been 3 years since we (me & my husband AJAY) went for KAILASH MANSAROVER YATRA, but still I
have not been able to write about it. The words fall too short, finding it next
to impossible to describe the experience in words. Normally I write about my
treks within a month or so but then this was not a trek. One thing is sure
about this Yatra that you are a part of this Yatra only by Divine Will & it
is that Divine Force that makes you complete the Yatra. Everything about this
Yatra is Divinely Magical. The love, respect, support and help that you get throughout
the Yatra from staff of MEA, KMVN, ITBP; local villagers, pony men, porters; is really
commendable. Not to forget the various
volunteer groups who give us a very well-co-ordinated warm send off and
an equally warm welcome on our arrival after completing the Yatra. The selfless
and genuine help and guidance by each and every one at every step definitely imbibes
something good in you.
Throughout our entire Yatra, not even for a second did we
feel that conducting Yatra every year was a part of job for MEA, KMVN & ITBP
personnel. The enthusiasm, love, and the encouraging words with which they
receive us at every camp is something you experience rarely. Their concern,
their gestures, mannerisms are too real and pure. The villagers we come across
enroute consider Yatris as the holy ones and themselves to be lucky if they are
able to interact with the Yatris, always eager to go out of the way to be of
some use to the Yatris. Our batch had to make an unscheduled stop at a small
village PANGLA due to landslide. It was an out of the world experience! You
have to experience it to believe it, the villagers on their own opened the
doors of their homes and hearts for us: all strangers ! a very rare scene in
the materialistic world we live. In no time, food and accommodation was
arranged. They felt so privileged to be of some help to the Yatris. The humble
villagers were so rich at heart….straight out of our moral class stories.
The pony men and the porters are aptly called as SHIVJI KE GAN. Without their help, it is impossible to
complete the yatra. They are with you throughout the yatra on the INDIAN side. Always
walking with you as your shadow with zero interference. They walk so quietly
one step behind you that at times you forget their presence but come a tricky
slope or a hurdle, you will find them extending their hand for support.
Frequently asking you have water, always walking at your pace, ever ready to
help you in everything. They not only carry your day luggage with you but also
help you in packing and unpacking at each camp. Always encouraging you,
enthralling you with the wonderful stories of DEVBHOOMI. And all this when
their official duty list is to carry our luggage only and they never get to
have the darshan of KAILASH PARVAT and MANSAROVER LAKE. For them it is both
source of livelihood as well as earning PUNYA through SEWA “Humanity and Faith
at its best”
UNFOLDING OF MAGIC
For many-many years, we both wished to undertake the KAILASH MANSAROVER
Yatra. Both of us were always very clear that we would undertake the Yatra via
LIPULEKH route only and not via Nepal. So back in 2000, we applied for the same
at Ministry of External Affairs but had to opt out due to some personal reasons.
We again applied in 2013, got selected also but again could not undertake the Yatra
as the Yatra was called off by the Government of India following massive cloudburst
at PITTHORAGARH “Hard Luck again”. We again applied for 2019 Yatra and were
lucky this time. KAILASH called us this time. We were given Batch 9 of 2019 KAILASH
MANSAROVER YATRA. This is how the unfolding of magic started.
The Yatra is of 21 days plus three days at Delhi for medical.
Our Yatra was from 14 July to 3rd August 2019. All the selected
Yatris reached Delhi by 10th July evening. Accommodation at Delhi was
arranged by MEA at GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN on Raj Niwas Marg at Civil Lines, Delhi.
4 DAYS AT DELHI:
DAY 1: 10 July 2019
All the Yatris reached Delhi. Most of the Yatris stayed at GUJRATI
SAMAJ SADAN. I stayed at my parent’s house at Delhi. I was very eager to meet
the fellow Yatris tomorrow. Though we both were very confident about our
health, still a ray of apprehension was there for tomorrow’s medical test. This
medical test is the ticket for the Yatra.
DAY 2: 11 july 2019
Today we were to report for medical at Delhi Heart & Lung
Institute, Panchkuian Road, New Delhi. Buses had been arranged for the Yatris
staying at GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN for the same. We reached well on time. All other
Yatris had also arrived. We greeted each other with a hesitant smile. No
wonder, it was our first meeting with the fellow Yatris. I very fondly remember
Sonakshi with her camera, Asha ji with a very calm face, Mona’s beautiful
smile, Chand’s friendly nod …. All were full of energy, filling their medical
forms and helping each other in completing the formalities.
One by one all the tests were done. We also met our liaison
officer Mr. M. K. Singh here. He is an Indian Air Force officer-a thorough gentleman,very caring, soft spoken,ever smiling, very approachable, calm but firm. He very compitently led the Yatra. Breakfast was at the hospital canteen itself. By lunch
all the required tests of all the yatris were completed. Results were to be
given next day. Apart from tests, we were also given briefing by the doctors
regarding the problems that we were likely to face during the yatra and the
possible remedies & precautions. We were appraised of all the DO’s and
DON’TS. After lunch at the hospital canteen, we all proceeded back to GUJRATI
SAMAJ SADAN.
DAY 3: 12 July 2019
Today was technically our result day. We were to receive our
medical report results. A Fit report was our ticket to Yatra. We were to report
at ITBP hospital, TIGRI Camp, PO Madangir, Delhi. We were both confident and
apprehensive.
On reaching there, we were very warmly greeted by the ITBP
personnel. We were then again briefed by ITBP officials regarding mountain
sickness, precautions, remedies etc. A number of volunteers and old KAILASHIS,
who had undertaken the yatra before, shared their experiences. They not only
gave us very useful tips but also small kits having essentials like pain balm,
lighter, camphor, band aid, small bottle of mustard oil and many more. A lot of
emphasis was laid on having a walking stick, proper shoes, warm clothing and
raincoat. Very useful and practical tips on packing the luggage were also shared.
By the end of these sessions, our reports from Heart &
Lung Institute had arrived. We were called one by one by the ITBP doctors for
the final call. Our reports were analysed by the ITBP doctors and our medical check-up
was done again before giving us the fitness report. Luckily most of the yatris passed
the fitness test. We 54 Yatris were now ready for the pilgrimage. All were from
different cities but with a common purpose.
Different committees like luggage committee, food committee,
pooja committee, finance committee etc were formed. This ensured every one’s
active participation and helped in bonding with each other.
DAY 4: 13 July 2019
Yatris had the final briefing session at MEA, Jawahar Lal
Nehru Bhawan, Janpath. Here we were briefed by the Ministry officials. We were
handed over our Passports and group visa, Yatra I cards. Some Do’s & Don’ts
in China were clearly explained. The session ended by noon. We Yatris were back
to GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN for lunch. Today we also shifted to GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN
from our parents place.
After lunch made the final purchases for left over items. A send-off
function was arranged in the evening. The function started with the pooja of Lord
Shiva followed by bhajans by a Bhajan Mandli. The function ended with dinner.
Everyone retired to their rooms. We had to report early at 5 AM in the morning.
YATRA STARTS: 14 JULY-3 AUGUST 2019:
21 DAYS OF MAGIC
DAY 1: 14 July
DELHI TO ALMORA
We reported at 5 AM sharp. All of us were brutally punctual.
The luggage of all the Yatris was loaded in the truck. There were two Volvos buses
waiting for the Yatris. The luggage committee ensured that no luggage was left
behind. We started at 6 AM sharp at the scheduled time. Before starting, a small
pooja was arranged by the GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN. The Yatris were garlanded, given
prasad and we were sent off very warmly with lots of good wishes. With the
chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV, our pilgrimage started. In no time we reached
Ghaziabad. A welcome/ send off ceremony was arranged at Hotel West View. The ceremony
started with felicitating all the Yatris and ended with photo session. We were
given small mementos as the token of their love and good wishes for the Yatra.
We were served sumptuous breakfast here by the volunteers. After breakfast we
continued our journey. As we were gradually gaining altitude, our body was
getting respite from Delhi’s heat and eyes were in for beautiful treat. We
reached KATHGODAM by lunch time. The KMVN Officials were eagerly waiting for
us. We were very warmly received. We enjoyed our lunch while hearing to the
bhajans sung melodiously by young and talented children. At KATHGODAM we
shifted from Volvo buses to two small buses. Soon after lunch we headed for our
final destination of today- ALMORA.
 |
| ALL SMILES AT ALMORA |
The journey was even more pleasant, the
mountains, scenic beauty was just too good. We reached ALMORA by evening. We
were well in time but it gets dark early in the mountains. Our stay was at KMVN
guest house. At ALMORA there were separate rooms for ladies and gents. Once
settled in rooms, we spent our time idly roaming about till dinner. Before
going to bed, each one did oil massage of our joints- a ritual which was
religiously followed by everyone throughout the Yatra as was suggested to us in
briefing earlier.
DAY 2: July 15 ALMORA – DHARCHULA
Today also our entire journey was by bus. We pass through
extremely beautiful lush green valleys, fast flowing rivers, beautiful water
falls throughout our journey. KUMAON region of UTTRAKHAND is full of virgin
beauty which we are going to experience in our coming days.
Our schedule was to start at 6 AM. Everyone was ready on time
and by 6:30 AM, all had boarded the buses. It was cloudy today and it had started
raining also. Rain and clouds always bring apprehension and worry in the hills.
But our bus driver assured us that the rain would certainly stop soon. With the
chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV, our journey for the day started. After half an hour
or so, the driver stopped the bus outside GOLU DEVTA temple to pray. GOLU DEVTA
is the GUARDIAN GOD of this area.
 |
| GOLU DEVETA |
It is a very revered temple here. All the
Yatris got down to visit the temple. The
temple had thousands of hand written letters and bells hanging. In this temple,
we were told, it is a ritual to give your wish written on paper to the Deity
and you are to hang a bell on the fulfilment of the wish. Locals strongly
believe that if your wish is genuine, it will definitely be granted. After the
darshan at the temple our bus proceeded towards DHAULCHINA, where we had a
sumptuous breakfast of Aloo Parathas & Raita.
 |
| ALOO PARATHA BREAKFAST |
Our next stop was DIDIHAT.
Enroute DIDIHAT, we crossed BERINAG. The weather was absolutely clear now. We reached
DIDIHAT well on time but had to wait at the outskirts as the road was closed
due to some repair work. It was lunch time and all us were feeling quite hungry.
Tea & samosa at a local roadside shop came to our rescue. Soon the road was
cleared and within minutes we reached our destination, KMVN guest house
DIDIHAT. Here we were given a traditional welcome with arti-tikka and garlands
by women in traditional attire. This was followed by a short photo session.
 |
| DIDIHAT LUNCH SHOOT |
Thereafter
lunch followed immediately and our buses
moved towards our next stop for the day. We did not stay longer here as we were
already late. ITBP camp at MIRTHI was our next halt. ITBP personnel were
waiting for us. After initial greetings, first of all we visited the temple at
the camp. Now we were formally welcomed by the ITBP staff & officers. Two
very beautiful school going girls in traditional dress offered us flower bouquets.
 |
| LOCAL ARTISTS DANCING |
All the jawans were standing in queue on either side of the road clapping.
Local artists dressed in traditional outfits were moving dancing on devotional
songs in front of us. It was such a warm warm spectacular welcome. Next we went
straight to a designated shed for a group photograph with the ITBP officer in
charge. Then we were taken to a conference hall where we were again briefed
about the precautions to be taken during the Yatra. We were also shown slides
and a film about the work of ITBP in that area. This was followed by high tea.
Since we had lunch late, we were full but found very difficult to refuse to
their warm hospitability. We were running a bit behind our schedule. We reached
DHARCHULA by 5 PM. Our luggage truck also reached shortly. After room
allotment, we were given briefing regarding porters, pony men, hiring rates etc.
We were advised to hire pony and porter both- a very practical and important
advice. We were also introduced to two ITBP jawans who were to accompany us
throughout the route as Head and Tail of the group. A doctor also accompanied
us till GUNJI. We were briefed about packing also. After briefing we took our
luggage to our rooms. Today there were three people in one room. Ladies and
gents were in different rooms. Since there was still time for dinner, we sorted
out our luggage. We packed next day bags
(one for each) to be carried by porter of not more than 6 kg each and 3 bags
with rest of our essentials to be transported in common luggage. We left one
bag of extra items at DHARCHULA. Next thing we did was to have a quick bath.
KMVN guest house at DHARCHULA is on the banks of RIVER KALI. Across
the river is Nepal as RIVER KALI forms the border between INDIA and NEPAL.
There is a bridge just outside the guest house that connects the two countries.
It was slightly
raining and we both were quite tired after the long journey, so decided on
going to Nepal while returning. The scenic beauty was in abundance throughout our
journey today- no doubt but still I was tired. Immediately after dinner, everyone
retired to their rooms. I went to bed early as my packing and sorting out was
already done.
DAY 3: July 16: DHARCHULA to BUDHI via NAJANG
Day started early today. Everyone was well on time.
 |
| LUGGAGE READY FOR LOADING |
It was
raining heavily today. No doubt our spirits were dampened. After breakfast I
finished my last moment packing. Porters and Pony men had also arrived at the
guest house. There was a bit of commotion today as it was raining and everyone
was forced to be crammed in a small portico. Today we were to travel to NAJANG
by jeeps and then by foot. Soon we all were in jeeps and with chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV
the Yatra started. The weather was not at all friendly today, It was raining
quite heavily. We encountered landslides on our way, which delayed us.
Apprehension was evident on everyone’s face. There was a very big land slide
just after the village PANGLA, we had to make an unscheduled stop at PANGLA.
This is the village where my childhood moral class stories came true. We were
received with open arms. We spent our night at PANGLA.
 |
| EVENING IN PANGLA |
 |
| MORNING AT PANGLA |
DAY 4: 17 July PANGLA to BUDHI
In the morning, we waited for the BRO staff to come to clear the landslide but were told that they were busy at some other more critical
landslide.
 |
| LANDSLIDE AT PANGLA |
Our liaison officer in consultation with our KMVN guide, Mr. Sanjay,
decided that to take a detour to cross the land slide and then board the jeeps
on the other side. Following this we were able to reach NAJANG in about 20 min
or so. Our porters and pony men were already waiting for us there. Quickly we
took refreshments at the makeshift dhaba and started our Yatra on foot. We
started with a steep climb which was only a curtain raiser.
 |
| ON FOOT YATRA STARTED |
 |
| FEROCIOUS KALI |
NAJANG the
trail was all along the RIVER KALI. Very picturesque, risky at times and
obviously very tiring. RIVER KALI was flowing very ferociously making loud
scary sounds.
At places, the path was so narrow that it was difficult to stand
with our feet side by side! We had to be extremely cautious. We had to
frequently trek up and down the slopes, which really exhausted us. Not only I
was taking frequent rests but others on foot were also in the same boat. Many
Yatris had opted to go on pony right from the beginning. The pony men of both
of us kept on requesting us but we kept on resisting. We had lunch at MALPA. There
was no waiting for anyone, whosoever arrived, had lunch and moved forward. Due
to frequent up and downs, we were covering the distance very slowly and BUDHI
seem to never come. We crossed by LAMARI where ITBP jawans were so encouraging
that it lifted our spirits immediately. Here we all took rest and drank much
wanted tea. Rest and tea really filled us with renewed energy. Weather had been
very favourable till now but by late afternoon, clouds appeared and it started
raining. Rains made the trail very slippery especially in the land slide areas.
As it was getting dark and was raining continuously, my speed went considerably
slow. It was then I decided to sit on the pony. Ajay decided to continue on
foot. Since we were very close to BUDHI, I reached the camp within half an hour.
Since I was feeling very cold, the cook was very graceful to let me sit by fire
in the kitchen for sometime. All other Yatris had already reached the camp
and were making themselves comfortable. Ladies and gents were in different dormitory
rooms. KMVN men once again made all the possible effort to make us
comfortable…be it extra blanket or request for warm drinking water or hot water
bottle. We all assembled before dinner in the dinning hall where we were given
briefing about next day’s trek and our code of conduct. Post dinner everyone
retired to their beds and we all chatted away till we slept. All of us were now
opening up.
Day 5: 18 July BUDHI
to GUNJI
I had good sleep last night. We got up early around 5 AM in
the morning. Nobody wanted to be late. Punctuality is the foremost requirement
at high altitudes. It was drizzling in the early morning but gradually the clouds
flew away. By the time we started, the sun was visible.
 |
| BUDHI CAMP |
Now we noticed the well-maintained
flower beds of the camp. Beautiful flowers were blooming in the bright
sun. Yesterday evening due to rain and fatigue we could not notice them. We
were given whistles today to be used for communication in emergency.
Immediately after briefing and head count, we started our Yatra with the chants
of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV.
 |
| YATRA RESUMED FROM BUDHI |
Today the trek started with a very steep ascent. Both of us started
on foot but after some time I sat on the pony till CHIALEKH. Here we had our breakfast
of Poori-Chana, aloo sabji and hot tea. The permits and I-cards of porters and
pony men were checked here. Soon we started our onward Yatra. Both of us
started on foot. We were passing through one of the most beautiful valley. For
a considerable time, we walked alongside the river.
 |
| GROUP PIC ENROUTE |
 |
| JUST TWO OF US |
 |
| ONLY ME |
Construction work for the
road was in full swing here. We had Lunch at GMVN hut at SITTI. There was another
hut which was selling on payment basis. Again, everyone ate and moved forward at
their own pace. Everyone reached Gunji well in time before evening. We passed by
the beautiful village of GARBIYANG. The path today was a mixture of steep
ascents and steep descents.
 |
| BREATHTAKING VIEWS |
All of us were now waiting anxiously for our luggage. As the
luggage arrived, we got into the business of sorting out. Evening was spent in the temple singing and
listening to beautiful bhajans. Dinner time was a merry time as all of us were
now friends. Different committees made the last-minute preparations.We were supposed to go to NABI tomorrow as per schedule but
as we had lost one day at PANGLA, our trek to NABI was cancelled, two days NABI
trek was replaced by one day stay at GUNJI. We had one full day for ourselves
tomorrow at GUNJI.
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| IGLOO HUTS AT GUNJI |
GUNJI is a big establishment of ITBP. It has both dormitories
and Igloo huts. We ladies were allotted dormitories and men were in Igloo huts.
GUNJI is important for Yatris because final medical test is done here and only
Yatris found fit are allowed to continue with their Yatra. Gunji is also the
last camp where you can buy small essentials like cells, woollen socks, bags,
etc.
DAY 6: 19 July GUNJI
Today was the leisure day for us. Almost everyone took bath
and washed necessary clothes.
 |
| GETTING READY AT GUNJI |
Today also sun was playing hide and seek. After
breakfast everyone assembled in a hall where the ITBP doctors first took our
medical test and then the briefing. All of us were advised to start the course
of Diomex. All of us were quite apprehensive before the tests. Luckily our full
batch was announced medically fit. Lunch was then done in a very lively atmosphere.
Post noon was for ourselves. Everyone idly and happily roamed about in the
camp. We left one luggage bag here. From here Ajay and myself segregated our
luggage separately. One day bag and one luggage bag each. We were to carry
limited luggage from here…only the luggage needed in CHINA. We all left one bag
here in GUNJI.
Day 7: 20 July GUNJI to KALAPANI
After two nights of rest, we all were ready on time in the
morning. Chanting HAR-HAR-MAHADEV, our batch started immediately after
breakfast. Yatris were full of enthusiasm. Today, both of us covered the yatra
on foot despite repeated requests from the pony owner.
 |
| YATRA RESUMED AGAIN |
The journey was full of
scenic beauty, we reached KALAPANI by afternoon. Just before reaching the camp,
we see VYAS GUFHA on the mountains towards our left. The Gufa is at a
considerable height and it seemed that the only way to reach it is by rock
climbing! There is a very beautiful, very serene temple of KALI MAA at the entrance
of the ITBP camp. Inside the temple, in front of Maa KALI’S idol, is a Kund
from which the River KALI originates. ITBP Jawans were at the temple to guide
us.
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| KALAPANI |
 |
| TEMPLE PREMISES |
After the darshan at the temple, we passed through the ITBP
camp to reach their Immigration office. Here our Passports were once again
checked. A little away was our campsite where hot lunch was waiting for us. Post
lunch, I took my much missed afternoon nap. Ajay with some other male Yatris
went to play a friendly cricket match with the ITBP jawans. All the Yatris
spent their time leisurely enjoying the natural beauty and taking short walks, clicking
pics. Everyone was so relaxed. The ITBP cook at the camp with his expertise
predicted clear weather tomorrow and sighting of OM PARVAT at NAVIDHANG
tomorrow. With happy thoughts we all went to bed. It was a very chilly night.
DAY 8 : 21 July
KALAPANI to NAVIDHANG
We got up to a very clear sky in the morning, mountain reaches were clearly visible. We
could easily see the NAG PARVAT. The ITBP cook again repeated his forecast of
clear day ahead.
 |
| NAGPHANI |
According to him if NAG PARVAT is visible at KALAPANI, then OM
PARVAT will be visible at NAVIDHANG. We all took pics till the breakfast was served.
Started our Yatra immediately after breakfast with high spirits.
 |
| GIRLS GANG |
The path to
NAVIDHANG is a gradual ascent. We are now in the upper reaches of the Great Himalayas.
River Kali, who had been by our side from NAJANG itself is now left behind. The
trek is tiring but beautiful. We are now above the “tree line” and are
fascinated by the mountains around us all along the route. I was taking
numerous rests in my climb.
 |
| GAINING HEIGHT |
Both the porters were walking with us and both the
pony men ahead of us. They would always wait at every turn to be in the
visibility of our eyes, in case we needed them. As we were slowly moving
forward, suddenly our pony men announced the visibility of OM PARVAT. This
information automatically increased our speed. What a spectacular sight it
was…. How real it was… A perfect OM… We enjoyed the view and then continued
walking. The ITBP jawans were present well before the camp site congratulating
us for the sighting of OM PARVAT, privilege which is not available to all
groups.
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| OM PARVAT |
We were welcomed with colourful juices at the entry of the camp. It was
lunch time and all of us after keeping the day bag in our designated rooms
headed to the dining hall. Thoroughly enjoyed the hot lunch and hats off to the
hospitality of KMVN staff at such a difficult place with highly challenging
weather conditions. A crashed helicopter can also be seen from the camp site. We
had dinner early than usual as we had to start as early as 3 am tomorrow
morning.
DAY 9 : 22 July NAVIDHANG to TAKLAKOT via LIPULEKH
We got up as soon the whistle blew for the wakeup call. It
was chilling cold, did not have the energy to look for my mobile safely kept in
my bag to save battery. The camp was full of activity. Porters and Pony men had
all arrived and waiting for us. The dining hall was ready with hot tea and
parathas. All the Yatris were ready before time. Today was one of the toughest days.
We had to be very conscious about the time. We were supposed to reach LIPULEKH
PASS by 7 AM- the time when Chinese arrive with the previous batch on the
either side of the pass. A delay could abort our Yatra as Chinese are known to
be looking for reasons to deny entry. It had started drizzling also.
 |
| DIVINE MAGIC ALL AROUND |
Chilling
cold with rain and we all out on the trail was a very deadly combination. I had
decided previous night only to sit on pony for today’s Yatra. Seeing the
weather conditions Ajay also opted for pony. Moreover it was pitch dark and rain
had made the path slippery. We both wanted to be together in this darkness. Despite
the adverse weather conditions, darkness and all, there was something in the
air…a divine serenity, calmness. Physically we were in trouble but there was no
fear, an unknown confidence was there. I felt completely safe. We took rest at
a Yatri Shed on the way. It was also half destroyed due to rain and wind last
night. Most of the Yatris were on pony today. For the first time rest was
demanded by the porters and the pony men- a well deserved one. As the dawn came near, rain also stopped and we could now enjoy
the scenery around. By 6:30-6:45 AM we reached LIPULEKH PASS.
 |
| LIPULEKH |
The Chinese with
the returning Yatris had not arrived yet on other side of Border. There was
some patches of snow at the pass. The sun had risen giving us all the much needed
respite from biting cold. Soon the goggles came out! The time was spent as usual clicking pics,
walking on snow and of course waiting, scarcity of oxygen was clearly felt.
 |
| WAITING TIME AT LIPULEKH |
We
bade good bye to porters and pony men and paid part of the porter/pony fee,
they were supposed to pick us back from here on return. Soon we saw two buses
coming on Chinese side which were obviously the returning Yatris of the previous
batch with the Chinese officials. Once the buses reached the base of the PASS
and formalities over, the Yatris from Chinese side started ascending and we
started descending. We were now carrying our own day bag as our porters did not
have the visa to step in their territory. This short descent was very exciting.
The chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV and BHARAT-MATA-KI-JAI filled the air. We were
congratulating the returning batch and they wishing us Luck.
 |
| MOVING DOWN TO CHINESE SIDE |
The bags which we
booked with the common luggage was carried down by the designated porters. Here
we met Mr. Suraj, our guide on Chinese side of the yatra. The
Chinese officials after quickly completing the formalities asked us to board
the buses. The previous batch had left some refreshments for us which we
relished on our way to TAKALKOT. The Chinese side was very developed with well
laid wide roads, neat and clean. Lot of construction and plantation work was in
progress. There were no trees and we could enjoy the vastness of the mountains
uninterrupted.
On reaching TAKLAKOT, we were first taken to the Chinese Immigration
office, our passports were checked and then the luggage screened. Thereafter,
we were taken to HOTEL PULAN. There were two persons in each room, so couples
stayed together. WiFi connectivity was there. We made WhatsApp
call to our relatives . We were staying in the hotel but food was being
made separately for our group by the cooks in a separate kitchen, hired by Mr. Suraj
on our behalf. Today’s lunch was complimentary, we were served noodles and
salad for lunch. The noodles were of some local brand but were quite tasty, they
were very different from what we get here in INDIA. After lunch, the cook with
the members of the food committee took a stock of grocery items. Non-perishable
grocery items we had brought from India. Perishable ones like vegetables were
to be bought from TAKLAKOT by food committee. The cooks helped the food
committee people to make the shopping list taking into consideration the
grocery left behind by the last batch. The cook sent one of his help with us to
the market. The rest of the time was spent by the Yatris at their will. Our
hotel was in the market, so was very convenient for everyone. I and Ajay also
went for a walk in the market. The market was very neat and clean. Even the
vegetable market was well planned. There were shops on either side of the road
The roads were broad and well maintained. Pool tables were placed on the
pavements outside the shops at many places. Many young boys and girls were seen
playing. We were clearly briefed by Mr. Suraj not to click pics of govt.
establishments, which might get us into trouble. We were told that Chinese
officials roam in plain clothes looking for rule breakers. The entire batch
took care of this. Days are very long at TAKLAKOT, at 8 PM also there is plenty
of light.
DAY 10: 23 July
STAY AT TAKLAKOT
Today was the rest day for us. In the morning Ajay went with
the food committee members to buy vegetables. The entire day was spent at our
own will. Almost everyone washed their clothes. There was a nice drying area in
the open. Today it was bright and sunny. Mr. Suraj briefed us about the Do’s
and Don’ts for Chinese side, also informed about the fees of porters and pony.
All of us were strictly advised to hire both porter and pony. The finance committee
collected the money to be given to Mr. Suraj
for the same and all other arrangements for this leg of our Yatra. Since we
were free, we again went for a stroll in the market. We postponed our shopping for
the next time when we return back after Yatra.
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| TAKLAKOT |
DAY 11: 24 July TAKLAKOT To DARCHEN
From today the Parikrama of KAILASH
and MANSAROVER starts. The parikrama of MANSAROVER is done by bus, partly while
going and it gets completed while
returning. We started just after breakfast and reached DARCHEN by lunch time.
The entire journey today was by bus. The
journey is very scenic, roads are broad and well maintained. Enroute
DARCHEN, we stopped at RAKSHAS TAAL. We had the first glimpses of the KAILASH
here. What a majestic sight it was!
Mount KAILASH standing tall against the clear blue water of the RAKSHAS
TAAL.
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| FIRST GLIMPSES OF KAILASH |
The weather was 100% clear giving magnificent view of MOUNT KAILASH. We
stayed here for about half an hour. Though it was sunny but still the wind was
very chilly. This is the lake besides which RAVANA worshipped LORD SHIVA for
many years.
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| RAKSHAL TAL |
Mr. Suraj informed us that
pilgrims rarely get to see MOUNT KAILASH so clearly from here due to clouds. We
were indeed the lucky ones. Our next stop was on the banks of MANSAROVER LAKE. We
were just mesmerised at view of MANSAROVER from bus, as the bus stopped, we all
ran towards the HOLY LAKE. We washed our hands and sat beside the lake praying
to the Almighty for some time.
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| HOLY MANSAROVER LAKE |
In DARCHEN we stayed at GANGDISI
hotel. There were rooms of different
occupancy. Our liaison officer allotted the rooms so that everyone was
comfortable. From DARCHEN, we can see the Peak of KAILASH. Since WiFi was
available, I made video call to my parents, daughter and showed them the
KAILASH. Darchen is a small town of Tibet.
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| GANGDISI HOTEL |
Our
hotel was in the market only, the market was just like Tibet Market at our hill
stations but bigger. We did buy some tit bits as token of remembrance. We also
bought some pendants with KAILASH and MANSAROVER LAKE photo on them. We
intended to give these as prasad to our friends and relatives.
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| DARCHEN MARKET WITH KAILASH IN BACK GROUND |
We are supposed to carry only one bag each
from here on and that too not more than 6 kg in weight. Rest of our luggage was
left at hotel’s cloak room. Porters on this side are very particular about the
weight, so it was better to be on the lighter side.
DAY 12: 25 July DARCHEN to DERAPHUK
Today starts our KAILASH PARIKRAMA.
After breakfast we travel by bus to YAM DWAR, here we are met by our porters
and pony men. I must point out, porters & pony men here are in stark contrasts
to the ones on the Indian side, these people are very rude, very unprofessional
and in-disciplined. I was surprised to
hear and experience this as I had a different picture of people of TIBET. You
are at their mercy, so you have to bear with them. There is no control over
them of their authorities, once annoyed, they may leave you in between or may
not turn up next day. We were briefed clearly about this, so we were all very
careful. After all the porters and the pony men arrived and were allotted to us
via lottery system, we started our DIVINE PARIKRAMA. My pony man was specially
very rude.
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| YAM DWAR WITH KAILASH IN BACK GROUND |
Before starting the parikrama we have
to pass through YAM DWAR and leave a personal belonging of ours there. It is
believed that YAM DEVTA keeps a record of all passing through YAM DWAR. Passing
through this DWAR frees you from all the negative energy which is essential for
completing your Parikarma successfully. Myself and Ajay started our yatra on
foot. KAILASH is on the right side of us, we come across many streams along the
way. We keep on getting the glimpse of KAILASH now and then throughout. I was
quite exhausted and was taking frequent rests. After some time I opted for pony
which turned out to be a big mistake. The pony men did not let me get down till
I reached DERAPHUK. By the time I reached the camp, my body was very stiff. Though
the distance was not much but I was brutally exhausted. Ajay also reached the camp
shortly. Our camp was just at the foot of KAILASH, we were closest to KAILASH
today.
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| CLOSE TO KAILASH |
It was a newly constructed hostel like building. The lobby was our common
room cum dinning room. Rooms were all around the lobby. Each room had 4-5 beds.
Mine room had glass windows facing KAILASH. Luckily, I got the bed besides the
widow. I could have darshan even while lying down also. Soon after lunch we all
started moving towards CHARAN SPARASH, not in the itinerary but Yatris visit
this on their own in groups. There is no well defined trail for this, at places
we have to climb over the boulders. We took with us the pendants that we had
purchased at DARCHEN to CHARAN SPARASH.
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| CHARANSPARSH |
On reaching CHARAN SPARASH, Ajay
touched them all to KAILASH MOUNT foot and for us all of them turned Holy. A
stream of water was flowing from the CHARAN SPARASH, we drank the holy water
but could not carry it back due to luggage weight restrictions. By time we
reached back our camp, it had started drizzling and in no time rain started.
Temperature went down considerably and despite wearing many layers of cloths,
we could feel the chill. Not taking any risk, all the Yatris were back inside
the lobby or their rooms. Dinner was early as we had to start early tomorrow. Both
of us had lost appetite but forced ourselves to eat.
DAY13: 26 July
DERAPHUK to ZUNZHUI PU
Today we were to start as early as 5
AM in chilly weather. It was the toughest and most important day of the trek.
Luckily all the porters and pony men arrived on time-- A very rare phenomenon! The entire batch was ready fit and fine. It was very cloudy and so we could not see the
beauty of sunrise rays on KAILASH. But then you don’t get everything.
Today in the first leg of our
journey, we were to cross DOLMA LA PASS (18,525 Ft.). Most of the Yatris sat on
the pony right from the beginning, it is better to cross the pass before the
snow starts melting and becomes slippery. Today the trek was very arduous and
our full concentration was on sitting attentively on pony than enjoy the
nature. The climb was really very risky. Thinking about it still gives me
goosebumps. This is one place where we could not click a single pic. The
terrain was so rough and ascent so steep that it was impossible to leave the
reins of the pony even for a second. There are boulders with snow all along the
ascent. This makes the climb even more scary and dangerous. One wrong step or
slip and you are gone. Moreover, DOLMA LA PASS is a very sacred pass and many
weird things are known to happen here. A sudden change in weather is one. This
pass is very sacred for Buddhists also. Many Buddhist pilgrims were also there
but they start their pilgrimage from the opposite side of the pass. Many prayer
flags and offerings were seen on the top of the pass. We were all chanting
MAHADEV’S name in our hearts and sometimes loudly. On reaching the top of the
pass, we immediately got down the pony as it was now steep downhill. We did not
stay at the pass for long as oxygen level was too low and started walking
downwards.
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| GAURI KUND |
To our right was GAURI KUND. We were strictly instructed not to try
going down for holy water from KUND, few of our porters went down and brought water
for us. From DOLMA LA PASS the journey is downhill and then a flat long trail
but exhausting.
 |
| SNOW PATCHES |
As we finish the steep downhill, we find our pony man waiting
for us. There are some sheds selling eatables but nothing of our taste. We ate ready
to eat noodles that we had brought with us. As the most difficult phase of the
trek was over and there were no time limitations as such, I was very relaxed
and decided to cover the rest of the journey on foot. My pony man was now
acting very friendly and even smiling. He was now very politely requesting to
use his service. But we walked till our camp on foot leisurely enjoying the
beautiful scenery and taking numerous rests.
 |
| DOWNHILL TRAIL |
We passed by many Buddhists
pilgrims, all looking very pious. We were the last to reach the camp after
completing difficult part of KAILASH PARIKRAMA successfully by the grace of
GOD. Tomorrow we were to complete our KAILASH PARIKRAMA and restart our
MANSAROVER PARIKRAMA. A part of it we had done on DAY 11 .With a relaxed mind
we go to bed today.
DAY 14 : 27 July ZUNZUI PU to QUGU
Today is a very relaxed day. We don’t have to start early, started at
9 AM today. The sky is partially covered by clouds, the weather is pleasant, everyone
is bubbling with energy. The excitement that the entire batch will be
successfully completing KAILASH PARIKRAMA is clearly evident. We have trek for
about 5 km before we board our buses. The trail is almost flat with small
ascents-descents here and there. Everyone is enjoying the company of beautiful
terrain. Only drawback is due to language problem we gather no knowledge about
the area since communicating with locals was not possible. Soon we reach our
buses which take us to QUGU which is on the bank of MANSAROVER LAKE. On the way we stopped at DARCHEN to pick our luggage
from the hotel’s cloak room, which we kept while going. Here our KAILASH
PARIKRAMA ends.
 |
| YATRA RESUMED AGAIN |
 |
| QUGU |
We reach QUGU by lunchtime. At QUGU, we stay
at a beautiful guest house on the bank of MANSAROVER LAKE. 6-7 people share one
room. Every room has glass widows facing the lake. The location of the guest
house is just perfect, there is nothing in between your room window and the
lake. After settling our luggage we went for a walk along MANSAROVER LAKE.
Some
Yatris took dip in the holy lake. I decide
against taking dip today due to cold weather in the afternoon and postpone it
for tomorrow morning. After all we are staying here tomorrow also. Ajay decides
to take the dip today also. Evening was as usual spent singing bhajans. Our
appetite was back and were enjoying the meals.
Everyone had planned to stay awake
and watch the DIVINE LIGHTS AT MANSAROVER LAKE. It is believed that “Apsaras”
come from heaven to take a dip in MAMSAROVER during night and look like
light/star. The sky was clear and we in ladies room were really able to see
many DIVINE LIGHTS, but no such luck for many others. We see them as lights
falling into the lake from the sky and brightening as they touch the surface of
the lake. It may sound unbelievable or mysterious but it was an experience. You
have to see them to believe! Got very little sleep but no complaints.
 |
| EVENING AT MANSAROVER |
DAY: 15 28 July STAY AT QUGU
Got up in the morning on time. Went
for morning walk. The view was just spectacular.
 |
| MORNING AT MANSAROVER |
It is a sad feeling to have
MANSAROVER on Chinese side but one thing is commendable that they have kept the
LAKE MANSAROVER absolutely clean. Everything is just heavenly awesome here.
As the sun came up, we all went for
the dip in the lake.
 |
| HOLY DIP |
After this we assembled for the HAVAN, everyone had bought
some havan samagri, dry fruit or the other things for the Prasad. All the dry
prasad was pooled, Halwa was made in the kitchen. Pooja committee people took
the charge of this. There is quite a big platform by the lake for this purpose,
the entire batch could easily sit on this. Our batch was smart enough to
distribute the havan essentials in different Yatri bags. Chinese officials had
confiscated such items of the previous batches. The next incoming batch had
sent a message requesting us to leave spare Pooja Samagri for them with the
caretaker as their Samagri has been confiscated by Chinese officials.
Performing Havan in front of KAILASH and on the banks of MANSAROVER LAKE was
something out of the world, very pure and purely spiritual. MOUNT KAILASH was
standing tall and watching us. We brought small portion of dry prasad with us
back home and shared with all our friends and relatives. We all had sumptuous
meal of poori-sabji & halwa after the Havan. Rest of the day was spent by
the lake. Everyone filled MANSAROVER JAL in bottles, as much as possible, to be
taken back home. Everyone had brought empty bottles for the same. We also
brought around 10 litres of the holy water which we shared with our relatives
and friends. The bottles were sealed carefully using tapes--- an important tip
given to us at ITBP camp DELHI.
DAY 16: 29 July QUGU to TAKLAKOT
We got up quite early but was
drizzling, could not go out for a long walk but did go for a short one wearing
raincoat. Walking beside the LAKE MANSAROVER is just blissful. I quickly packed
my things as wanted to use every extra minute watching KAILASH and LAKE
MANSAROVER. The realisation that this might be the last time I will be watching
KAILASH and MANSAROVER LAKE, made my eyes glued to the lake even more. After
breakfast, our journey back to TAKLAKOT by bus started. As our bus moves along
LAKE MANSAROVER, my mind begins to ponder on the events of past few days. I
felt so lucky and blessed to be able to undertake this yatra. I start thanking
GOD with all my heart.
On the way to TAKLAKOT we visit
KHOJARNATH temple, it is a beautiful temple that resembles a monastery but has
idols of LORD RAM, SITA AND LAKSHMAN. The rituals practised are that of
Buddhists. We reach TAKLAKOT by lunchtime.
 |
| RAM TEMPLE AT TAKLAKOT |
Rest of the day is free. We once
again take a tour of the market and buy small things like scarf, stoles,
trinklets etc. We took care not to buy anything fancy that might attract
attention of Chinese officials. It is a well established fact that they are
very moody and if they decide to open the bag due to some reason, the first
thing they take out is MANSAROVER JAL. In the evening we enjoyed tea with
Indian samosa at a very cute little restaurant. The owners were a young couple-
lady from DHARCHULA and husband from Tibet.
DAY 17: 30 July TAKLAKOT to GUNJI
Today we were returning back to our
country, day started with all of us standing in line in front of the
immigration office. The Chinese officials were late as usual, once they came,
the process was completed quickly and we headed to LIPULEKH PASS by buses. As the
LIPULEKH PASS came into our visibility, a sense of joy and achievement filled
my heart. Our batch also left some snacks for the incoming batch. Batch 10 was coming down and we were going up
back to Indian side.
It was an exact replica of DAY 9 of our Yatra. We were very warmly received by our porters
and pony men. There was so much love and concern in their voices, we now appreciated
and acknowledged their sincerity even more. We were so happy to be back in our
own country. It was raining so we both sat on the pony but as the weather got
better, we got down after some distance.
 |
NAGPHANI |
Breakfast was at NAVIDHANG. OM PARVAT and NAGPHANI were visible today also. By lunchtime we had reached KALAPANI. After quick
lunch, rest and darshan at the KALI TEMPLE we started our YATRA. Ajay completed
the entire journey on foot while I took turns on pony. Sitting on pony is also
very painful. By late evening we reached GUNJI. Dinner at Gunji followed by
Peaceful sleep
DAY
18: 31 July GUNJI TO BUDHI via
GARBIYAN
 |
| RETURNING BACK |
We retrace
our journey to BUDHI today after breakfast. We had our lunch at CHIYALEKH. From here is the steep descent to
BUDHI. Weather is favourable today. We take our own time walk leisurely to reach
BUDHI for night stay.
DAY 19: 1 August BUDHI to
DHARCHULA
This is the last day of our YATRA on foot. It is raining and
the trek is very slippery. Today I was more on pony than on foot. Ajay covered
the entire route on foot. We reached NAJANG by lunchtime. We paid the balance
to our porters and pony men along with their well deserving tips. From NAJANG,
we went in jeeps to DHARCHULA GMVN GUEST HOUSE. THE FIRST thing we did was to
collect our luggage from the cloak room and have the much needed bath.
Thereafter we paid a short visit to Nepal side.
In the evening, our porters and pony men came to visit us.
All of them were staying at DHARCHULA. They were again starting their Yatra
after 4 days with the next Batch. Dinner was at KMVN guest house.
DAY 20: 2 August DHARCHULA
to JAGESHWAR via PITHORAGARH
It was a long bus journey today. We were very warmly sent off
by the GMVN staff. Lunch today was at PITHORAGARH GMVN guest house. The guest house is very beautiful and well
maintained. In the guest house campus, they have a small memorial also in the memory
of our martyrs. We all paid our respects to our brave soldiers. An Oath of
preserving our environment was also taken here by all of us. At PITHORAGARH we
talked to some reporters who were waiting for us at the guest house. We came
across a few landslides which delayed us, we reached JAGESHWAR late in the
evening.
We stay at GMVN guest house here also. Immediately after room
allotment, we dump our luggage in our rooms and immediately head towards the JAGESHWAR
DHAM. We were lucky enough to reach before the evening Arti. We are also able
to get slot for morning Abhishek.
After Arti
we return to guest house as it had started raining.
 |
| ABHISHEK AT JAGESHWAR DHAM |
DAY 21: 3 August JAGESHWAR to DELHI via KATHGODAM
We got up quite early, took bath for morning ABHISHEK at
JAGESHWAR DHAM. After Abhishek, without any delay, we all boarded the buses.
And with this the final leg of Our Yatra started, we also visited the ancient
temple at JAGESHWAR before leaving. Breakfast was at KHAIRNA and lunch at KMVN
KATHGODAM where we again changed the buses to VOLVO. Our evening tea was
arranged by volunteers at GAR GANGA. Here we were first felicitated and given
GANGA JAL as Souviners. We were served sumptuous snacks. We reached DELHI at about
8 pm. We were given certificates of Yatra completion here at GUJRATI SAMAJ
SADAN. Our luggage reached very late and upset return schedule of many Yatries.
And with this our magnificent YATRA ended. The reluctant and
hesitant smiles have now turned into warm embraces and bear hugs. We have all
turned into lifelong friends.
I end my blog with the wordings of a bhajan sung by jawans at KALAPANI...
भोले बाबा से मिलना आसान नही, बड़ा कष्ट उठाना पड़ता है ,
कभी पहाड़ों पर चढ़ना होता है
कभी दरिया पार करना होता है
कभी पैदल, कभी घोड़े पर चलना पड़ता है
कभी बारिश मे, कभी बर्फ पर चलना पड़ता है
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
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ALL OF US
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