MAGICAL  SANDAKPHU

MY KAILASH MANSAROVER YATRA ….THE DIVINE MAGIC

I am not able to decide as to what my KAILASH MANSAROVER YATRA was like…was it Magic, was it Supernatural or was it purely Divine? It was certainly all rolled into one. It took me long to come to this conclusion. It has been 3 years since we (me & my husband AJAY) went for KAILASH MANSAROVER YATRA, but still I have not been able to write about it. The words fall too short, finding it next to impossible to describe the experience in words. Normally I write about my treks within a month or so but then this was not a trek. One thing is sure about this Yatra that you are a part of this Yatra only by Divine Will & it is that Divine Force that makes you complete the Yatra. Everything about this Yatra is Divinely Magical. The love, respect, support and help that you get throughout the Yatra from staff of MEA, KMVN, ITBP; local villagers, pony men, porters; is really commendable. Not to forget the various  volunteer groups who give us a very well-co-ordinated warm send off and an equally warm welcome on our arrival after completing the Yatra. The selfless and genuine help and guidance by each and every one at every step definitely imbibes something good in you.

Throughout our entire Yatra, not even for a second did we feel that conducting Yatra every year was a part of job for MEA, KMVN & ITBP personnel. The enthusiasm, love, and the encouraging words with which they receive us at every camp is something you experience rarely. Their concern, their gestures, mannerisms are too real and pure. The villagers we come across enroute consider Yatris as the holy ones and themselves to be lucky if they are able to interact with the Yatris, always eager to go out of the way to be of some use to the Yatris. Our batch had to make an unscheduled stop at a small village PANGLA due to landslide. It was an out of the world experience! You have to experience it to believe it, the villagers on their own opened the doors of their homes and hearts for us: all strangers ! a very rare scene in the materialistic world we live. In no time, food and accommodation was arranged. They felt so privileged to be of some help to the Yatris. The humble villagers were so rich at heart….straight out of our moral class stories.

The pony men and the porters are aptly called as SHIVJI KE GAN. Without their help, it is impossible to complete the yatra. They are with you throughout the yatra on the INDIAN side. Always walking with you as your shadow with zero interference. They walk so quietly one step behind you that at times you forget their presence but come a tricky slope or a hurdle, you will find them extending their hand for support. Frequently asking you have water, always walking at your pace, ever ready to help you in everything. They not only carry your day luggage with you but also help you in packing and unpacking at each camp. Always encouraging you, enthralling you with the wonderful stories of DEVBHOOMI. And all this when their official duty list is to carry our luggage only and they never get to have the darshan of KAILASH PARVAT and MANSAROVER LAKE. For them it is both source of livelihood as well as earning PUNYA through SEWA “Humanity and Faith at its best”

UNFOLDING OF MAGIC

For many-many years, we both wished to undertake the KAILASH MANSAROVER Yatra. Both of us were always very clear that we would undertake the Yatra via LIPULEKH route only and not via Nepal. So back in 2000, we applied for the same at Ministry of External Affairs but had to opt out due to some personal reasons. We again applied in 2013, got selected also but again could not undertake the Yatra as the Yatra was called off by the Government of India following massive cloudburst at PITTHORAGARH “Hard Luck again”. We again applied for 2019 Yatra and were lucky this time. KAILASH called us this time. We were given Batch 9 of 2019 KAILASH MANSAROVER YATRA. This is how the unfolding of magic started.

The Yatra is of 21 days plus three days at Delhi for medical. Our Yatra was from 14 July to 3^rd August 2019. All the selected Yatris reached Delhi by 10^th July evening. Accommodation at Delhi was arranged by MEA at GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN on Raj Niwas Marg at Civil Lines, Delhi.

4 DAYS AT DELHI:

DAY 1: 10 July 2019

All the Yatris reached Delhi. Most of the Yatris stayed at GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN. I stayed at my parent’s house at Delhi. I was very eager to meet the fellow Yatris tomorrow. Though we both were very confident about our health, still a ray of apprehension was there for tomorrow’s medical test. This medical test is the ticket for the Yatra.

DAY 2: 11 july 2019

Today we were to report for medical at Delhi Heart & Lung Institute, Panchkuian Road, New Delhi. Buses had been arranged for the Yatris staying at GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN for the same. We reached well on time. All other Yatris had also arrived. We greeted each other with a hesitant smile. No wonder, it was our first meeting with the fellow Yatris. I very fondly remember Sonakshi with her camera, Asha ji with a very calm face, Mona’s beautiful smile, Chand’s friendly nod …. All were full of energy, filling their medical forms and helping each other in completing the formalities.

One by one all the tests were done. We also met our liaison officer Mr. M. K. Singh here. He is an Indian Air Force officer-a thorough gentleman,very caring, soft spoken,ever smiling, very approachable, calm but firm. He very compitently led the Yatra. Breakfast was at the hospital canteen itself. By lunch all the required tests of all the yatris were completed. Results were to be given next day. Apart from tests, we were also given briefing by the doctors regarding the problems that we were likely to face during the yatra and the possible remedies & precautions. We were appraised of all the DO’s and DON’TS. After lunch at the hospital canteen, we all proceeded back to GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN.

DAY 3: 12 July 2019

Today was technically our result day. We were to receive our medical report results. A Fit report was our ticket to Yatra. We were to report at ITBP hospital, TIGRI Camp, PO Madangir, Delhi. We were both confident and apprehensive.

On reaching there, we were very warmly greeted by the ITBP personnel. We were then again briefed by ITBP officials regarding mountain sickness, precautions, remedies etc. A number of volunteers and old KAILASHIS, who had undertaken the yatra before, shared their experiences. They not only gave us very useful tips but also small kits having essentials like pain balm, lighter, camphor, band aid, small bottle of mustard oil and many more. A lot of emphasis was laid on having a walking stick, proper shoes, warm clothing and raincoat. Very useful and practical tips on packing the luggage were also shared.

By the end of these sessions, our reports from Heart & Lung Institute had arrived. We were called one by one by the ITBP doctors for the final call. Our reports were analysed by the ITBP doctors and our medical check-up was done again before giving us the fitness report. Luckily most of the yatris passed the fitness test. We 54 Yatris were now ready for the pilgrimage. All were from different cities but with a common purpose.

Different committees like luggage committee, food committee, pooja committee, finance committee etc were formed. This ensured every one’s active participation and helped in bonding with each other.

DAY 4: 13 July 2019

Yatris had the final briefing session at MEA, Jawahar Lal Nehru Bhawan, Janpath. Here we were briefed by the Ministry officials. We were handed over our Passports and group visa, Yatra I cards. Some Do’s & Don’ts in China were clearly explained. The session ended by noon. We Yatris were back to GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN for lunch. Today we also shifted to GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN from our parents place.

After lunch made the final purchases for left over items. A send-off function was arranged in the evening. The function started with the pooja of Lord Shiva followed by bhajans by a Bhajan Mandli. The function ended with dinner. Everyone retired to their rooms. We had to report early at 5 AM in the morning.

YATRA STARTS: 14 JULY-3 AUGUST 2019: 

21 DAYS OF MAGIC

DAY 1:  14 July  DELHI TO ALMORA

We reported at 5 AM sharp. All of us were brutally punctual. The luggage of all the Yatris was loaded in the truck. There were two Volvos buses waiting for the Yatris. The luggage committee ensured that no luggage was left behind. We started at 6 AM sharp at the scheduled time. Before starting, a small pooja was arranged by the GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN. The Yatris were garlanded, given prasad and we were sent off very warmly with lots of good wishes. With the chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV, our pilgrimage started. In no time we reached Ghaziabad. A welcome/ send off ceremony was arranged at Hotel West View. The ceremony started with felicitating all the Yatris and ended with photo session. We were given small mementos as the token of their love and good wishes for the Yatra. We were served sumptuous breakfast here by the volunteers. After breakfast we continued our journey. As we were gradually gaining altitude, our body was getting respite from Delhi’s heat and eyes were in for beautiful treat. We reached KATHGODAM by lunch time. The KMVN Officials were eagerly waiting for us. We were very warmly received. We enjoyed our lunch while hearing to the bhajans sung melodiously by young and talented children. At KATHGODAM we shifted from Volvo buses to two small buses. Soon after lunch we headed for our final destination of today- ALMORA.

ALL SMILES AT ALMORA

The journey was even more pleasant, the mountains, scenic beauty was just too good. We reached ALMORA by evening. We were well in time but it gets dark early in the mountains. Our stay was at KMVN guest house. At ALMORA there were separate rooms for ladies and gents. Once settled in rooms, we spent our time idly roaming about till dinner. Before going to bed, each one did oil massage of our joints- a ritual which was religiously followed by everyone throughout the Yatra as was suggested to us in briefing earlier.  

DAY 2: July 15  ALMORA – DHARCHULA

Today also our entire journey was by bus. We pass through extremely beautiful lush green valleys, fast flowing rivers, beautiful water falls throughout our journey. KUMAON region of UTTRAKHAND is full of virgin beauty which we are going to experience in our coming days.

Our schedule was to start at 6 AM. Everyone was ready on time and by 6:30 AM, all had boarded the buses. It was cloudy today and it had started raining also. Rain and clouds always bring apprehension and worry in the hills. But our bus driver assured us that the rain would certainly stop soon. With the chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV, our journey for the day started. After half an hour or so, the driver stopped the bus outside GOLU DEVTA temple to pray. GOLU DEVTA is the GUARDIAN GOD of this area.

GOLU DEVETA

It is a very revered temple here. All the Yatris  got down to visit the temple. The temple had thousands of hand written letters and bells hanging. In this temple, we were told, it is a ritual to give your wish written on paper to the Deity and you are to hang a bell on the fulfilment of the wish. Locals strongly believe that if your wish is genuine, it will definitely be granted. After the darshan at the temple our bus proceeded towards DHAULCHINA, where we had a sumptuous breakfast of Aloo Parathas & Raita.

ALOO PARATHA BREAKFAST

Our next stop was DIDIHAT. Enroute DIDIHAT, we crossed BERINAG. The weather was absolutely clear now. We reached DIDIHAT well on time but had to wait at the outskirts as the road was closed due to some repair work. It was lunch time and all us were feeling quite hungry. Tea & samosa at a local roadside shop came to our rescue. Soon the road was cleared and within minutes we reached our destination, KMVN guest house DIDIHAT. Here we were given a traditional welcome with arti-tikka and garlands by women in traditional attire. This was followed by a short photo session.

DIDIHAT LUNCH SHOOT

Thereafter lunch  followed immediately and our buses moved towards our next stop for the day. We did not stay longer here as we were already late. ITBP camp at MIRTHI was our next halt. ITBP personnel were waiting for us. After initial greetings, first of all we visited the temple at the camp. Now we were formally welcomed by the ITBP staff & officers. Two very beautiful school going girls in traditional dress offered us flower bouquets.

LOCAL ARTISTS DANCING 

All the jawans were standing in queue on either side of the road clapping. Local artists dressed in traditional outfits were moving dancing on devotional songs in front of us. It was such a warm warm spectacular welcome. Next we went straight to a designated shed for a group photograph with the ITBP officer in charge. Then we were taken to a conference hall where we were again briefed about the precautions to be taken during the Yatra. We were also shown slides and a film about the work of ITBP in that area. This was followed by high tea. Since we had lunch late, we were full but found very difficult to refuse to their warm hospitability. We were running a bit behind our schedule. We reached DHARCHULA by 5 PM. Our luggage truck also reached shortly. After room allotment, we were given briefing regarding porters, pony men, hiring rates etc. We were advised to hire pony and porter both- a very practical and important advice. We were also introduced to two ITBP jawans who were to accompany us throughout the route as Head and Tail of the group. A doctor also accompanied us till GUNJI. We were briefed about packing also. After briefing we took our luggage to our rooms. Today there were three people in one room. Ladies and gents were in different rooms. Since there was still time for dinner, we sorted out our luggage. We packed  next day bags (one for each) to be carried by porter of not more than 6 kg each and 3 bags with rest of our essentials to be transported in common luggage. We left one bag of extra items at DHARCHULA. Next thing we did was to have a quick bath.

KMVN guest house at DHARCHULA is on the banks of RIVER KALI. Across the river is Nepal as RIVER KALI forms the border between INDIA and NEPAL. There is a bridge just outside the guest house that connects the two countries.

 It was slightly raining and we both were quite tired after the long journey, so decided on going to Nepal while returning. The scenic beauty was in abundance throughout our journey today- no doubt but still I was tired. Immediately after dinner, everyone retired to their rooms. I went to bed early as my packing and sorting out was already done.

DAY 3:  July 16: DHARCHULA to BUDHI via NAJANG

Day started early today. Everyone was well on time.

LUGGAGE READY FOR LOADING

It was raining heavily today. No doubt our spirits were dampened. After breakfast I finished my last moment packing. Porters and Pony men had also arrived at the guest house. There was a bit of commotion today as it was raining and everyone was forced to be crammed in a small portico. Today we were to travel to NAJANG by jeeps and then by foot. Soon we all were in jeeps and with chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV the Yatra started. The weather was not at all friendly today, It was raining quite heavily. We encountered landslides on our way, which delayed us. Apprehension was evident on everyone’s face. There was a very big land slide just after the village PANGLA, we had to make an unscheduled stop at PANGLA. This is the village where my childhood moral class stories came true. We were received with open arms. We spent our night at PANGLA.

EVENING IN PANGLA

MORNING AT PANGLA

DAY 4: 17 July   PANGLA to BUDHI

 In the morning, we waited for the BRO staff to come to clear the landslide but were told that they were busy at some other more critical landslide.

LANDSLIDE AT PANGLA

Our liaison officer in consultation with our KMVN guide, Mr. Sanjay, decided that to take a detour to cross the land slide and then board the jeeps on the other side. Following this we were able to reach NAJANG in about 20 min or so. Our porters and pony men were already waiting for us there. Quickly we took refreshments at the makeshift dhaba and started our Yatra on foot. We started with a steep climb which was only a curtain raiser.

ON FOOT YATRA STARTED

FEROCIOUS KALI

NAJANG the trail was all along the RIVER KALI. Very picturesque, risky at times and obviously very tiring. RIVER KALI was flowing very ferociously making loud scary sounds.

At places, the path was so narrow that it was difficult to stand with our feet side by side! We had to be extremely cautious. We had to frequently trek up and down the slopes, which really exhausted us. Not only I was taking frequent rests but others on foot were also in the same boat. Many Yatris had opted to go on pony right from the beginning. The pony men of both of us kept on requesting us but we kept on resisting. We had lunch at MALPA. There was no waiting for anyone, whosoever arrived, had lunch and moved forward. Due to frequent up and downs, we were covering the distance very slowly and BUDHI seem to never come. We crossed by LAMARI where ITBP jawans were so encouraging that it lifted our spirits immediately. Here we all took rest and drank much wanted tea. Rest and tea really filled us with renewed energy. Weather had been very favourable till now but by late afternoon, clouds appeared and it started raining. Rains made the trail very slippery especially in the land slide areas. As it was getting dark and was raining continuously, my speed went considerably slow. It was then I decided to sit on the pony. Ajay decided to continue on foot. Since we were very close to BUDHI, I reached the camp within half an hour. Since I was feeling very cold, the cook was very graceful to let me sit by fire in the kitchen for sometime. All other Yatris had already reached the camp and were making themselves comfortable. Ladies and gents were in different dormitory rooms. KMVN men once again made all the possible effort to make us comfortable…be it extra blanket or request for warm drinking water or hot water bottle. We all assembled before dinner in the dinning hall where we were given briefing about next day’s trek and our code of conduct. Post dinner everyone retired to their beds and we all chatted away till we slept. All of us were now opening up.

 Day 5: 18 July   BUDHI to GUNJI

I had good sleep last night. We got up early around 5 AM in the morning. Nobody wanted to be late. Punctuality is the foremost requirement at high altitudes. It was drizzling in the early morning but gradually the clouds flew away. By the time we started, the sun was visible.

BUDHI CAMP

Now we noticed the well-maintained flower beds of the  camp. Beautiful flowers were blooming in the bright sun. Yesterday evening due to rain and fatigue we could not notice them. We were given whistles today to be used for communication in emergency. Immediately after briefing and head count, we started our Yatra with the chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV.

YATRA RESUMED FROM BUDHI

Today the trek started with a very steep ascent. Both of us started on foot but after some time I sat on the pony till CHIALEKH. Here we had our breakfast of Poori-Chana, aloo sabji and hot tea. The permits and I-cards of porters and pony men were checked here. Soon we started our onward Yatra. Both of us started on foot. We were passing through one of the most beautiful valley. For a considerable time, we walked alongside the river.

GROUP PIC ENROUTE

JUST TWO OF US

ONLY ME

Construction work for the road was in full swing here. We had Lunch at GMVN hut at SITTI. There was another hut which was selling on payment basis. Again, everyone ate and moved forward at their own pace. Everyone reached Gunji well in time before evening. We passed by the beautiful village of GARBIYANG. The path today was a mixture of steep ascents and steep descents.

BREATHTAKING VIEWS

All of us were now waiting anxiously for our luggage. As the luggage arrived, we got into the business of sorting out.  Evening was spent in the temple singing and listening to beautiful bhajans. Dinner time was a merry time as all of us were now friends. Different committees made the last-minute preparations.

We were supposed to go to NABI tomorrow as per schedule but as we had lost one day at PANGLA, our trek to NABI was cancelled, two days NABI trek was replaced by one day stay at GUNJI. We had one full day for ourselves tomorrow at GUNJI.

IGLOO HUTS AT GUNJI

GUNJI is a big establishment of ITBP. It has both dormitories and Igloo huts. We ladies were allotted dormitories and men were in Igloo huts. GUNJI is important for Yatris because final medical test is done here and only Yatris found fit are allowed to continue with their Yatra. Gunji is also the last camp where you can buy small essentials like cells, woollen socks, bags, etc.

DAY 6: 19 July   GUNJI

Today was the leisure day for us. Almost everyone took bath and washed necessary clothes. 

GETTING READY AT GUNJI

Today also sun was playing hide and seek. After breakfast everyone assembled in a hall where the ITBP doctors first took our medical test and then the briefing. All of us were advised to start the course of Diomex. All of us were quite apprehensive before the tests. Luckily our full batch was announced medically fit. Lunch was then done in a very lively atmosphere.

Post noon was for ourselves. Everyone idly and happily roamed about in the camp. We left one luggage bag here. From here Ajay and myself segregated our luggage separately. One day bag and one luggage bag each. We were to carry limited luggage from here…only the luggage needed in CHINA. We all left one bag here in GUNJI.

Day 7:  20 July GUNJI to KALAPANI

After two nights of rest, we all were ready on time in the morning. Chanting HAR-HAR-MAHADEV, our batch started immediately after breakfast. Yatris were full of enthusiasm. Today, both of us covered the yatra on foot despite repeated requests from the pony owner.

YATRA RESUMED AGAIN

The journey was full of scenic beauty, we reached KALAPANI by afternoon. Just before reaching the camp, we see VYAS GUFHA on the mountains towards our left. The Gufa is at a considerable height and it seemed that the only way to reach it is by rock climbing! There is a very beautiful, very serene temple of KALI MAA at the entrance of the ITBP camp. Inside the temple, in front of Maa KALI’S idol, is a Kund from which the River KALI originates. ITBP Jawans were at the temple to guide us.

KALAPANI

TEMPLE PREMISES

After the darshan at the temple, we passed through the ITBP camp to reach their Immigration office. Here our Passports were once again checked. A little away was our campsite where hot lunch was waiting for us. Post lunch, I took my much missed afternoon nap. Ajay with some other male Yatris went to play a friendly cricket match with the ITBP jawans. All the Yatris spent their time leisurely enjoying the natural beauty and taking short walks, clicking pics. Everyone was so relaxed. The ITBP cook at the camp with his expertise predicted clear weather tomorrow and sighting of OM PARVAT at NAVIDHANG tomorrow. With happy thoughts we all went to bed. It was a very chilly night.

DAY 8 :   21 July  KALAPANI to NAVIDHANG

We got up to a very clear sky in the morning,  mountain reaches were clearly visible. We could easily see the NAG PARVAT. The ITBP cook again repeated his forecast of clear day ahead.

NAGPHANI

According to him if NAG PARVAT is visible at KALAPANI, then OM PARVAT will be visible at NAVIDHANG. We all took pics till the breakfast was served. Started our Yatra immediately after breakfast with high spirits.

GIRLS GANG

The path to NAVIDHANG is a gradual ascent. We are now in the upper reaches of the Great Himalayas. River Kali, who had been by our side from NAJANG itself is now left behind. The trek is tiring but beautiful. We are now above the “tree line” and are fascinated by the mountains around us all along the route. I was taking numerous rests in my climb.

GAINING HEIGHT

Both the porters were walking with us and both the pony men ahead of us. They would always wait at every turn to be in the visibility of our eyes, in case we needed them. As we were slowly moving forward, suddenly our pony men announced the visibility of OM PARVAT. This information automatically increased our speed. What a spectacular sight it was…. How real it was… A perfect OM… We enjoyed the view and then continued walking. The ITBP jawans were present well before the camp site congratulating us for the sighting of OM PARVAT, privilege which is not available to all groups.

OM PARVAT

We were welcomed with colourful juices at the entry of the camp. It was lunch time and all of us after keeping the day bag in our designated rooms headed to the dining hall. Thoroughly enjoyed the hot lunch and hats off to the hospitality of KMVN staff at such a difficult place with highly challenging weather conditions. A crashed helicopter can also be seen from the camp site. We had dinner early than usual as we had to start as early as 3 am tomorrow morning.

DAY 9 : 22 July  NAVIDHANG to TAKLAKOT via LIPULEKH

We got up as soon the whistle blew for the wakeup call. It was chilling cold, did not have the energy to look for my mobile safely kept in my bag to save battery. The camp was full of activity. Porters and Pony men had all arrived and waiting for us. The dining hall was ready with hot tea and parathas. All the Yatris were ready before time. Today was one of the toughest days. We had to be very conscious about the time. We were supposed to reach LIPULEKH PASS by 7 AM- the time when Chinese arrive with the previous batch on the either side of the pass. A delay could abort our Yatra as Chinese are known to be looking for reasons to deny entry. It had started drizzling also.

DIVINE MAGIC ALL AROUND

Chilling cold with rain and we all out on the trail was a very deadly combination. I had decided previous night only to sit on pony for today’s Yatra. Seeing the weather conditions Ajay also opted for pony. Moreover it was pitch dark and rain had made the path slippery. We both wanted to be together in this darkness. Despite the adverse weather conditions, darkness and all, there was something in the air…a divine serenity, calmness. Physically we were in trouble but there was no fear, an unknown confidence was there. I felt completely safe. We took rest at a Yatri Shed on the way. It was also half destroyed due to rain and wind last night. Most of the Yatris were on pony today. For the first time rest was demanded by the porters and the pony men- a well deserved one. As the dawn came near, rain also stopped and we could now enjoy the scenery around. By 6:30-6:45 AM we reached LIPULEKH PASS.

 LIPULEKH

The Chinese with the returning Yatris had not arrived yet on other side of Border. There was some patches of snow at the pass. The sun had risen giving us all the much needed respite from biting cold. Soon the goggles came out!  The time was spent as usual clicking pics, walking on snow and of course waiting, scarcity of oxygen was clearly felt.

WAITING TIME AT LIPULEKH

We bade good bye to porters and pony men and paid part of the porter/pony fee, they were supposed to pick us back from here on return. Soon we saw two buses coming on Chinese side which were obviously the returning Yatris of the previous batch with the Chinese officials. Once the buses reached the base of the PASS and formalities over, the Yatris from Chinese side started ascending and we started descending. We were now carrying our own day bag as our porters did not have the visa to step in their territory. This short descent was very exciting. The chants of HAR-HAR-MAHADEV and BHARAT-MATA-KI-JAI filled the air. We were congratulating the returning batch and they wishing us Luck.

MOVING DOWN TO CHINESE SIDE

The bags which we booked with the common luggage was carried down by the designated porters. Here we met Mr.  Suraj,  our guide on Chinese side of the yatra. The Chinese officials after quickly completing the formalities asked us to board the buses. The previous batch had left some refreshments for us which we relished on our way to TAKALKOT. The Chinese side was very developed with well laid wide roads, neat and clean. Lot of construction and plantation work was in progress. There were no trees and we could enjoy the vastness of the mountains uninterrupted.

On reaching TAKLAKOT, we were first taken to the Chinese Immigration office, our passports were checked and then the luggage screened. Thereafter, we were taken to HOTEL PULAN. There were two persons in each room, so couples stayed together. WiFi connectivity was there. We made WhatsApp call to our relatives . We were staying in the hotel but food was being made separately for our group by the cooks in a separate kitchen, hired by Mr. Suraj on our behalf. Today’s lunch was complimentary, we were served noodles and salad for lunch. The noodles were of some local brand but were quite tasty, they were very different from what we get here in INDIA. After lunch, the cook with the members of the food committee took a stock of grocery items. Non-perishable grocery items we had brought from India. Perishable ones like vegetables were to be bought from TAKLAKOT by food committee. The cooks helped the food committee people to make the shopping list taking into consideration the grocery left behind by the last batch. The cook sent one of his help with us to the market. The rest of the time was spent by the Yatris at their will. Our hotel was in the market, so was very convenient for everyone. I and Ajay also went for a walk in the market. The market was very neat and clean. Even the vegetable market was well planned. There were shops on either side of the road The roads were broad and well maintained. Pool tables were placed on the pavements outside the shops at many places. Many young boys and girls were seen playing. We were clearly briefed by Mr. Suraj not to click pics of govt. establishments, which might get us into trouble. We were told that Chinese officials roam in plain clothes looking for rule breakers. The entire batch took care of this. Days are very long at TAKLAKOT, at 8 PM also there is plenty of light.

DAY 10:  23 July   STAY AT TAKLAKOT

Today was the rest day for us. In the morning Ajay went with the food committee members to buy vegetables. The entire day was spent at our own will. Almost everyone washed their clothes. There was a nice drying area in the open. Today it was bright and sunny. Mr. Suraj briefed us about the Do’s and Don’ts for Chinese side, also informed about the fees of porters and pony. All of us were strictly advised to hire both porter and pony. The finance committee collected the money  to be given to Mr. Suraj for the same and all other arrangements for this leg of our Yatra. Since we were free, we again went for a stroll in the market. We postponed our shopping for the next time when we return back after Yatra.

TAKLAKOT

DAY 11: 24 July  TAKLAKOT  To DARCHEN

From today the Parikrama of KAILASH and MANSAROVER starts. The parikrama of MANSAROVER is done by bus, partly while going and  it gets completed while returning. We started just after breakfast and reached DARCHEN by lunch time. The entire journey today was by bus. The  journey is very scenic, roads are broad and well maintained. Enroute DARCHEN, we stopped at RAKSHAS TAAL. We had the first glimpses of the KAILASH here. What a majestic sight it was!  Mount KAILASH standing tall against the clear blue water of the RAKSHAS TAAL.

FIRST GLIMPSES OF KAILASH

The weather was 100% clear giving magnificent view of MOUNT KAILASH. We stayed here for about half an hour. Though it was sunny but still the wind was very chilly. This is the lake besides which RAVANA worshipped LORD SHIVA for many years. 

RAKSHAL TAL

Mr. Suraj informed us that pilgrims rarely get to see MOUNT KAILASH so clearly from here due to clouds. We were indeed the lucky ones. Our next stop was on the banks of MANSAROVER LAKE. We were just mesmerised at view of MANSAROVER from bus, as the bus stopped, we all ran towards the HOLY LAKE. We washed our hands and sat beside the lake praying to the Almighty for some time.

HOLY MANSAROVER LAKE

In DARCHEN we stayed at GANGDISI hotel.  There were rooms of different occupancy. Our liaison officer allotted the rooms so that everyone was comfortable. From DARCHEN, we can see the Peak of KAILASH. Since WiFi was available, I made video call to my parents, daughter and showed them the KAILASH. Darchen is a small town of Tibet.

GANGDISI HOTEL

Our hotel was in the market only, the market was just like Tibet Market at our hill stations but bigger. We did buy some tit bits as token of remembrance. We also bought some pendants with KAILASH and MANSAROVER LAKE photo on them. We intended to give these as prasad to our friends and relatives.

DARCHEN MARKET WITH KAILASH IN BACK GROUND

We are supposed to carry only one bag each from here on and that too not more than 6 kg in weight. Rest of our luggage was left at hotel’s cloak room. Porters on this side are very particular about the weight, so it was better to be on the lighter side.

DAY 12:  25 July  DARCHEN to DERAPHUK

Today starts our KAILASH PARIKRAMA. After breakfast we travel by bus to YAM DWAR, here we are met by our porters and pony men. I must point out, porters & pony men here are in stark contrasts to the ones on the Indian side, these people are very rude, very unprofessional and in-disciplined. I was  surprised to hear and experience this as I had a different picture of people of TIBET. You are at their mercy, so you have to bear with them. There is no control over them of their authorities, once annoyed, they may leave you in between or may not turn up next day. We were briefed clearly about this, so we were all very careful. After all the porters and the pony men arrived and were allotted to us via lottery system, we started our DIVINE PARIKRAMA. My pony man was specially very rude.

YAM DWAR WITH KAILASH IN BACK GROUND

Before starting the parikrama we have to pass through YAM DWAR and leave a personal belonging of ours there. It is believed that YAM DEVTA keeps a record of all passing through YAM DWAR. Passing through this DWAR frees you from all the negative energy which is essential for completing your Parikarma successfully. Myself and Ajay started our yatra on foot. KAILASH is on the right side of us, we come across many streams along the way. We keep on getting the glimpse of KAILASH now and then throughout. I was quite exhausted and was taking frequent rests. After some time I opted for pony which turned out to be a big mistake. The pony men did not let me get down till I reached DERAPHUK. By the time I reached the camp, my body was very stiff. Though the distance was not much but I was brutally exhausted. Ajay also reached the camp shortly. Our camp was just at the foot of KAILASH, we were closest to KAILASH today.

CLOSE TO KAILASH

It was a newly constructed hostel like building. The lobby was our common room cum dinning room. Rooms were all around the lobby. Each room had 4-5 beds. Mine room had glass windows facing KAILASH. Luckily, I got the bed besides the widow. I could have darshan even while lying down also. Soon after lunch we all started moving towards CHARAN SPARASH, not in the itinerary but Yatris visit this on their own in groups. There is no well defined trail for this, at places we have to climb over the boulders. We took with us the pendants that we had purchased at DARCHEN to CHARAN SPARASH.

CHARANSPARSH

On reaching CHARAN SPARASH, Ajay touched them all to KAILASH MOUNT foot and for us all of them turned Holy. A stream of water was flowing from the CHARAN SPARASH, we drank the holy water but could not carry it back due to luggage weight restrictions. By time we reached back our camp, it had started drizzling and in no time rain started. Temperature went down considerably and despite wearing many layers of cloths, we could feel the chill. Not taking any risk, all the Yatris were back inside the lobby or their rooms. Dinner was early as we had to start early tomorrow. Both of us had lost appetite but forced ourselves to eat.

DAY13:    26 July  DERAPHUK to ZUNZHUI PU

Today we were to start as early as 5 AM in chilly weather. It was the toughest and most important day of the trek. Luckily all the porters and pony men arrived on time-- A very rare phenomenon!  The entire batch was ready fit and fine.  It was very cloudy and so we could not see the beauty of sunrise rays on KAILASH. But then you don’t get everything.

Today in the first leg of our journey, we were to cross DOLMA LA PASS (18,525 Ft.). Most of the Yatris sat on the pony right from the beginning, it is better to cross the pass before the snow starts melting and becomes slippery. Today the trek was very arduous and our full concentration was on sitting attentively on pony than enjoy the nature. The climb was really very risky. Thinking about it still gives me goosebumps. This is one place where we could not click a single pic. The terrain was so rough and ascent so steep that it was impossible to leave the reins of the pony even for a second. There are boulders with snow all along the ascent. This makes the climb even more scary and dangerous. One wrong step or slip and you are gone. Moreover, DOLMA LA PASS is a very sacred pass and many weird things are known to happen here. A sudden change in weather is one. This pass is very sacred for Buddhists also. Many Buddhist pilgrims were also there but they start their pilgrimage from the opposite side of the pass. Many prayer flags and offerings were seen on the top of the pass. We were all chanting MAHADEV’S name in our hearts and sometimes loudly. On reaching the top of the pass, we immediately got down the pony as it was now steep downhill. We did not stay at the pass for long as oxygen level was too low and started walking downwards.

GAURI KUND

To our right was GAURI KUND. We were strictly instructed not to try going down for holy water from KUND, few of our porters went down and brought water for us. From DOLMA LA PASS the journey is downhill and then a flat long trail but exhausting.

SNOW PATCHES

As we finish the steep downhill, we find our pony man waiting for us. There are some sheds selling eatables but nothing of our taste. We ate ready to eat noodles that we had brought with us. As the most difficult phase of the trek was over and there were no time limitations as such, I was very relaxed and decided to cover the rest of the journey on foot. My pony man was now acting very friendly and even smiling. He was now very politely requesting to use his service. But we walked till our camp on foot leisurely enjoying the beautiful scenery and taking numerous rests.

DOWNHILL TRAIL

We passed by many Buddhists pilgrims, all looking very pious. We were the last to reach the camp after completing difficult part of KAILASH PARIKRAMA successfully by the grace of GOD. Tomorrow we were to complete our KAILASH PARIKRAMA and restart our MANSAROVER PARIKRAMA. A part of it we had done on DAY 11 .With a relaxed mind we go to bed today.

DAY 14 : 27 July  ZUNZUI PU to QUGU

Today is a very relaxed  day. We don’t have to start early, started at 9 AM today. The sky is partially covered by clouds, the weather is pleasant, everyone is bubbling with energy. The excitement that the entire batch will be successfully completing KAILASH PARIKRAMA is clearly evident. We have trek for about 5 km before we board our buses. The trail is almost flat with small ascents-descents here and there. Everyone is enjoying the company of beautiful terrain. Only drawback is due to language problem we gather no knowledge about the area since communicating with locals was not possible. Soon we reach our buses which take us to QUGU which is on the bank of MANSAROVER LAKE.  On the way we stopped at DARCHEN to pick our luggage from the hotel’s cloak room, which we kept while going. Here our KAILASH PARIKRAMA ends.

YATRA RESUMED AGAIN

QUGU

We reach QUGU by lunchtime. At QUGU, we stay at a beautiful guest house on the bank of MANSAROVER LAKE. 6-7 people share one room. Every room has glass widows facing the lake. The location of the guest house is just perfect, there is nothing in between your room window and the lake. After settling our luggage we went for a walk along MANSAROVER LAKE.

Some Yatris took dip in the holy lake. I decide against taking dip today due to cold weather in the afternoon and postpone it for tomorrow morning. After all we are staying here tomorrow also. Ajay decides to take the dip today also. Evening was as usual spent singing bhajans. Our appetite was back and were enjoying the meals.

Everyone had planned to stay awake and watch the DIVINE LIGHTS AT MANSAROVER LAKE. It is believed that “Apsaras” come from heaven to take a dip in MAMSAROVER during night and look like light/star. The sky was clear and we in ladies room were really able to see many DIVINE LIGHTS, but no such luck for many others. We see them as lights falling into the lake from the sky and brightening as they touch the surface of the lake. It may sound unbelievable or mysterious but it was an experience. You have to see them to believe! Got very little sleep but no complaints.

EVENING AT MANSAROVER

DAY: 15  28 July   STAY AT QUGU

Got up in the morning on time. Went for morning walk. The view was just spectacular.

MORNING AT MANSAROVER

It is  a sad feeling to have MANSAROVER on Chinese side but one thing is commendable that they have kept the LAKE MANSAROVER absolutely clean. Everything is just heavenly  awesome here. 

   As the sun came up, we all went for the dip in the lake.

 HOLY DIP

After this we assembled for the HAVAN, everyone had bought some havan samagri, dry fruit or the other things for the Prasad. All the dry prasad was pooled, Halwa was made in the kitchen. Pooja committee     people took the charge of this. There is quite a big platform by the lake for this purpose, the entire batch could easily sit on this. Our batch was smart enough to distribute the havan essentials in different Yatri bags. Chinese officials had confiscated such items of the previous batches. The next incoming batch had sent a message requesting us to leave spare Pooja Samagri for them with the caretaker as their Samagri has been confiscated by Chinese officials. Performing Havan in front of KAILASH and on the banks of MANSAROVER LAKE was something out of the world, very pure and purely spiritual. MOUNT KAILASH was standing tall and watching us. We brought small portion of dry prasad with us back home and shared with all our friends and relatives. We all had sumptuous meal of poori-sabji & halwa after the Havan. Rest of the day was spent by the lake. Everyone filled MANSAROVER JAL in bottles, as much as possible, to be taken back home. Everyone had brought empty bottles for the same. We also brought around 10 litres of the holy water which we shared with our relatives and friends. The bottles were sealed carefully using tapes--- an important tip given to us at ITBP camp DELHI.

DAY 16: 29 July   QUGU to TAKLAKOT

We got up quite early but was drizzling, could not go out for a long walk but did go for a short one wearing raincoat. Walking beside the LAKE MANSAROVER is just blissful. I quickly packed my things as wanted to use every extra minute watching KAILASH and LAKE MANSAROVER. The realisation that this might be the last time I will be watching KAILASH and MANSAROVER LAKE, made my  eyes glued to the lake even more. After breakfast, our journey back to TAKLAKOT by bus started. As our bus moves along LAKE MANSAROVER, my mind begins to ponder on the events of past few days. I felt so lucky and blessed to be able to undertake this yatra. I start thanking GOD with all my heart.

On the way to TAKLAKOT we visit KHOJARNATH temple, it is a beautiful temple that resembles a monastery but has idols of LORD RAM, SITA AND LAKSHMAN. The rituals practised are that of Buddhists. We reach TAKLAKOT by lunchtime.

RAM TEMPLE AT TAKLAKOT

Rest of the day is free. We once again take a tour of the market and buy small things like scarf, stoles, trinklets etc. We took care not to buy anything fancy that might attract attention of Chinese officials. It is a well established fact that they are very moody and if they decide to open the bag due to some reason, the first thing they take out is MANSAROVER JAL. In the evening we enjoyed tea with Indian samosa at a very cute little restaurant. The owners were a young couple- lady from DHARCHULA and husband from Tibet.

DAY 17: 30 July   TAKLAKOT to GUNJI

Today we were returning back to our country, day started with all of us standing in line in front of the immigration office. The Chinese officials were late as usual, once they came, the process was completed quickly and we headed to LIPULEKH PASS by buses. As the LIPULEKH PASS came into our visibility, a sense of joy and achievement filled my heart. Our batch also left some snacks for the incoming batch.  Batch 10 was coming down and we were going up back to Indian side.

It was an exact replica of DAY 9 of our Yatra.  We were very warmly received by our porters and pony men. There was so much love and concern in their voices, we now appreciated and acknowledged their sincerity even more. We were so happy to be back in our own country. It was raining so we both sat on the pony but as the weather got better, we got down after some distance.

NAGPHANI

Breakfast was at NAVIDHANG. OM PARVAT and NAGPHANI were visible today also. By lunchtime we had reached KALAPANI. After quick lunch, rest and darshan at the KALI TEMPLE we started our YATRA. Ajay completed the entire journey on foot while I took turns on pony. Sitting on pony is also very painful. By late evening we reached GUNJI. Dinner at Gunji followed by Peaceful sleep

DAY  18: 31 July  GUNJI TO BUDHI via GARBIYAN

RETURNING BACK

We retrace our journey to BUDHI today after breakfast. We had our lunch at  CHIYALEKH. From here is the steep descent to BUDHI. Weather is favourable today. We take our own time walk leisurely to reach BUDHI for night stay.

DAY 19: 1 August  BUDHI to DHARCHULA

This is the last day of our YATRA on foot. It is raining and the trek is very slippery. Today I was more on pony than on foot. Ajay covered the entire route on foot. We reached NAJANG by lunchtime. We paid the balance to our porters and pony men along with their well deserving tips. From NAJANG, we went in jeeps to DHARCHULA GMVN GUEST HOUSE. THE FIRST thing we did was to collect our luggage from the cloak room and have the much needed bath. Thereafter we paid a short visit to Nepal side.

In the evening, our porters and pony men came to visit us. All of them were staying at DHARCHULA. They were again starting their Yatra after 4 days with the next Batch. Dinner was at KMVN guest house.

DAY 20: 2 August DHARCHULA to JAGESHWAR  via PITHORAGARH

It was a long bus journey today. We were very warmly sent off by the GMVN staff. Lunch today was at PITHORAGARH GMVN guest house. The  guest house is very beautiful and well maintained. In the guest house campus, they have a small memorial also in the memory of our martyrs. We all paid our respects to our brave soldiers. An Oath of preserving our environment was also taken here by all of us. At PITHORAGARH we talked to some reporters who were waiting for us at the guest house. We came across a few landslides which delayed us, we reached JAGESHWAR late in the evening.

We stay at GMVN guest house here also. Immediately after room allotment, we dump our luggage in our rooms and immediately head towards the JAGESHWAR DHAM. We were lucky enough to reach before the evening Arti. We are also able to get slot for morning Abhishek.  After Arti we return to guest house as it had started raining.

ABHISHEK AT JAGESHWAR DHAM

DAY 21: 3 August  JAGESHWAR to DELHI via KATHGODAM

We got up quite early, took bath for morning ABHISHEK at JAGESHWAR DHAM. After Abhishek, without any delay, we all boarded the buses. And with this the final leg of Our Yatra started, we also visited the ancient temple at JAGESHWAR before leaving. Breakfast was at KHAIRNA and lunch at KMVN KATHGODAM where we again changed the buses to VOLVO. Our evening tea was arranged by volunteers at GAR GANGA. Here we were first felicitated and given GANGA JAL as Souviners. We were served sumptuous snacks. We reached DELHI at about 8 pm. We were given certificates of Yatra completion here at GUJRATI SAMAJ SADAN. Our luggage reached very late and upset return schedule of many Yatries.

And with this our magnificent YATRA ended. The reluctant and hesitant smiles have now turned into warm embraces and bear hugs. We have all turned into lifelong friends.

I end my blog with the wordings of a bhajan sung by jawans at KALAPANI...

            भोले बाबा से मिलना आसान नही, बड़ा कष्ट उठाना पड़ता है ,

                                                     कभी पहाड़ों पर चढ़ना होता है 

                                                     कभी दरिया पार करना होता है

     कभी पैदल, कभी घोड़े पर चलना पड़ता है

      कभी बारिश मे, कभी बर्फ पर चलना पड़ता है

🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

ALL OF US