MAGICAL  SANDAKPHU

MOUNTAINS CALLED US AGAIN !!!!!! Post Covid, was not sure whether will be able to go on trek again; during Covid and even after that, with our physical activities greatly reduced,we were quite apprehensive while choosing the trek as our physical fitness was considerably less as compared to our earlier treks. We chose SANDAKAPHU TREK, as it was already in our wish list and it had well laid out route with no tricky sections. 

We registered with TREK THE HIMALAYAS for 11th to 17th FEBRUARY 2023 batch. There were 11 members in the batch….three young budding doctors from Mumbai…RITU AADYA & NIDHI, Mainik – an engineering graduate from Kolkota, Aditya working in IT in Australia, four childhood friends Harshit, Varun, Satvik & Rahul from Mandla. We both were again the senior citizens in the group. Trek leader was Mr. Narender assisted by Mr. Shirin & Mr. Saroj. Apart from these there were cooks, porters, mule men etc.

In our entire journey we come across beautiful  colourful tea houses. Whether they were the  roadside ones enroute or higher up in Sepi, Aal, Thakom; they were all very tastefully decorated with colourful flower  pots at the enterance, walls & windows painted with vibrant colours and one could not miss the shiny beautiful curtains. Equally neat and organized are the interiors .

Day 0 ( 9-10 FEB)  CHANDIGARH to NEW JALPAIGURI

Boarded 12 pm Shatabdi from Chandigarh to New Delhi and then New Delhi- NJP Rajdhani on 9 th Feb. We reached NJP on 10th afternoon.

Day 1 (11 Feb) NJP to SEPI

We were all instructed to meet at the TTH vehicles at NJP station. All 11 of us were well on time. After a brief hello we boarded the vehicles. Me and my wife Charoo along with three budding doctors Ritu, Adya, Neha were in one vehicle and six young boys in the other vehicle. After an hour or so we stopped at a road side dhaba for tea/snacks. As we moved ahead we were greeted with tea gardens on both side of the road. Weather was playing little spoiled sport, It was very cloudy and visibiliy very poor. Hats off to the drivers who were able to drive ….  It was colder than what we had anticipated. We had lunch at YONZON HOMESTAY at Khopi Dara. Our host Mr. Tashi served us THUKPA & dal rice, vegetable, salad etc along with the story of weather not being favourable up there. But he also said with a sweet smile weather in mountains is very unpredictable, you people may be the lucky ones. He also had a small shop selling essentials like gloves, caps etc. A very big help for some trekmates who had forgotton something. After quick lunch and shopping we headed towards SEPI.

Visibility was noew so poor that we could not see much around us, I was turning very skeptical about what was in store for us….We reached Sepi at 6 pm after covering 130 km distance in freezing cold. Our trek leaders were waiting for us, we were allotted rooms in a beautiful Tea house “LIPPOHOCHHA HOME STAY”. We assembled in the dinning room for evening tea and formal introductions. Our papers were collected here, DO‘s and Don’t’s were told. We were told about the mountain etiquettes,  trek rules in detai and were asked to follow the samel.  There was still time for dinner, so we went to our rooms as it was very windy and cold out there. We came out  only at dinner time only and after quick dinner, everyone quickly went back to their respective rooms.

DAY 2 (12Feb) SEPI to SAMANDEN (14 Km)

Today our trek starts in real sense .

All of us were ready on time. Keeping our off loading bags at the designated place and backpacks on our shoulders we were all full of energy & enthusiasm. Sun was smiling at us and this lifted my spirits that were dampened by yesterday’s weather.                                                                                               

READY TO GO

After the breakfast of Puri Bhaji and customery group photo we started our trek with HIGH JOSH. The trek started on a motorable road and soon we crossed a suspension bridge at Sirkhola. This is the bridge where we finish our trek also after completing the full circle. Many prayer flags were fluttering on the bridge. Slowly and steadily we ascended towards RAMAM which was our lunch point. 

Lunch was very good but with strict instruction of ONLY ONE PAPAD EACH. We enjoyed lunch, specially white aloo bhaji, in the open with beautiful views . Some of our trek-mates then tried to catch the hens that were roaming there but hens were too swift !!!! Afterl lunch and rest we started to trek again. We now see Rhododendron trees which had just started blooming with few red flowers in the Singalila Forest. Ascending, descending we reached  the beautiful serene village Samanden at 4:15 pm.

SAMADEN VILLAGE

The village has few houses and that too quite far from each other. Our stay today was in one such TEA HOUSE “Lost Valley Homestay”.

After some exercises to ease out our muscles we keep our luggage in our allotted rooms. Some of us take a stroll nearby.  Tea, soup/pakoda, dinner was served in the dining room, JALEBI was special surprise. Today our oxygen level were noted.  Weather has been friendly today!

DAY 3 (13Feb) SAMANDEN to PHALUT (16 km)

Today we had a long trek with steep ascents. Our group was punctual as usual and we started immediately after breakfast.

We had to descent gradually till we reach the bridge over GORHEY KHOLA river and then ascend. We pass by a beautiful small village Gorkhey. Trek today was in Singalia forest and we walked with the hope of seeing RED PANDA. Weather was not favourable today,though there was no rain but  clouds all the way. 

ALUBARI

We had our Lunch at  ALUBARI in forest guard hut. By the time we reached  Alubari,weather changed to bright sunny. We were very much exhausted. We had normal dal-rice lunch but few youngsters opted for WAI WAI noodles and omellete. Upto Alubari, we had trekked 10 kms and 6 more to go before we reach Phalut…But these 6 kms were steep ascent according to my  stamina.

After lunch and rest we moved forward only to take rest again and again. Today we were moving on a beautiful picturesque trail . Everyone’s eyes are looking for “Sleeping Buddha”………we were all moving gradually up, taking numerous short and long rests. I was little  dejected as we were not to be able to see KANCHENJAUNGA even once till now due to clouds.

FIRST VIEW OF SLEEPING BUDHA

I was at the height of exhaustion when Harsh called…come fast… Part of sleeping Buddha is visible…My legs gained speed automatically and was able to witness the head & body of Sleeping Buddha clearly…..Sleeping Buddha was our companion for a considerable time. You see, mountains never cease to surprise you.

Despite it being a very challenging day, we reached just before sunset. It was very very chilly and windy. Tents had been already pitched. Tents were fluttering so much giving feeling that they will uproot any moment. It was very chilly and we were in  our thermals immediately. There was amazing view of sunset.

All of us then gathered in the dining room, everyone played games…but we both were too exhausted to join.Nevertheless we enjoyed the lively chatter. My appettite had reduced but Charoo’s  appetite had completely gone despite  tempting food item like Suji Halwa. Today again everyone’s oxygen level was checked before dinner, interestingly Charoo’s  level increased by 3 points…. Post dinner as we stepped out to go to our tents, we were in for a very very beautiful visual treat of sky full of stars. The stars seemed to be so close, so clear & so so big…. An impossible sight for us  living in metros. The TTH staff was considerate to deliver warm water in our tents itself.

It was decided to go to see Sunrise at 5 am if the weather is clear. Trek leader Mr. Narender would take the call.

DAY 4 (14 Feb) PHALUT to THAKOM

We all get up to greet a chilly  foggy morning. Due to fog we did not go to sunrise point  though Mainek was very keen on it. It was indeed our hard luck.

Soon sun comes out to offer relief. Everyone has its own story of sleep last night. Sleeping in a sleeping bag is very challenging. Who got the maximum sleep is still debatable. As we won’t be gaining any height today, the trek was not going to be very strenous, this thought was quite encouraging. The group was again punctual and all assembled in the dining hall for breakfast. Our Friends from Mandla had different plans and decided not to continue the trek further and go to NEPAL instead. We were all sorry about it. Breakfast was very heavy with Paratha, Sabji and egg Bhuji.. After breakfast we 7 started towards Thakom with Mr.Shirin and Saroj. Mr. Narender stayed back for making arrangements for the Mandla Party, he joined us midway. We were walking quite leisurely today, Sun was bright and comforting.Clicking pics and enjoying we reached Sabargram.Here we have our packed lunch of pulao. We could have hot tea/coffee here…..very enerzising. From Sabargram it is 3 km to Thakom.

There is stone road constructed upto Thakom on which Landrovers run. Shirin And Saroj took us through many off route trails to avoid this road . The trails were very picturesque and offered much relief to te feet. Yaks and patches of snow were visible enroute. 

As we neared Thakom dense fog engulfed us forcing me  to wear my jacket as it got really cold. By the time we reached camp it was very windy and chilly. The staff had already pitched up the tents. Our campsite was in the ground of a teahouse. The reception of the teahouse homestay seved us tea in dining room. Seeing the weather and the availability of room we both and the girls decided to opt for the rooms for night instead of tents. Aditya and Mainik were adventrous  enough  to choose tent even though room was available…. Hats off to them.! The wind and chill was way more scary than yesterday.  All of us chatted till dinner. With the sweet taste of Seviyan kheer we retired to our respective room/ tent.

Today night was very scary. The wind sound was too scandalous. It made howling sound all night. I felt as if the window glass may break any moment.

DAY 5(15 Feb) THAKOM to AAL

Morning today was equally chilly. Sun was evasive. Each one of us had its own story of the previous night. After a sumptous breakfast of Chole poori, boiled egg and pasta…we started our trek. No group pic was taken today as no one was able to to take hands out of gloves. Today we walk on INDO-NEPAL border. Shirin again takes us throgh off route trails to avoid the stone road wherever possible.

When we started, there were thick clouds but soon the weather changed and was sunny. The trek was straight and not tiring.

INDO NEPAL BORDER POST

At places we come across Milestones with INDIA written on one side and NEPAL on the other. We soon reached a view point CHANDRU. There was a lone dhaba there but was closed today. We all were looking forward to have tea/coffee there but no luck. 

Few tourists who had come by landrover were also there enjoying the views. ( it is still not clear to me that wether the name of the view point was CHANDRU or the name of owner of the dhaba!) Overall  it was a very refershing break.

We took long rest here, enjoyed lying on the grass and spinning stories around clouds in the sky. We reached Aal by lunchtime. Lunch was at a homestay today. We had a tasty treat of Rajma-rice for lunch.

The homestay was at the border of India & Nepal. The lady of the house was Indian and her husband a Nepali. Indeed they had chosen a perfect place for their home. Weather had again changed and chill had returned.  Since it was equally cold as yesterday  and space was available, all seven of us decided to stay  in homestay instead of tents. The homestay had two bedrooms and kitchen. One room doubled up as pooja room also, the other as dining room. Kitchen served the purpose of both cooking and room for family when guests like us arrive. Interior of the homestay were so neat and beautiful. Everything was kept so well organized and handy.

In no time the lady of the house provided us with the blankets, quilts. So much to learn from her efficiency. I can never forget her sweet simple warm smile and her two  bubbly kids who spent the evening with us. The evening was spent Talking and Solving Aditya‘s puzzle (a difficult one indeed!). Since there were thick clouds, we could not see the sunset. Chilliness of the weather restricted us to the rooms of the homestay. We had early dinner and all went to sleep thinking about Aditya‘s puzzle savouring the sweet taste of home made Gulabjamuns which we had after dinner.

DAY 6 (16 Feb) AAL to TIMBURE via SANDAKPHU

I got up early and could see ‘Sleeping Budha’ clearly, I woke up all with an exciting shout… Sleeping Buddha was Clearly visible…all in the group immediately sprang out of the bed and had the most mesmerizing view.

For the first time we saw the Sleeping Buddha in full! What a sight it was…the trek felt complete now… all of us spent considerable time with Sleeping Buddha enjoying the view and clicking pics & imprinting the image in our memories. Soon clouds came and covered a part of it… but no regrets now. One can never be satisfied with the views-you always wish for more…… AFTER BREAKFAST OF EGG, BOILED POTATO, POHA AND UPMA we start our onward journey, which was also our return journey towards Sepi. 

Sandakphu is only 3 kms from Aal. 

It is gradual ascent to SANDAKPHU. Sleeping buddha is always visible  by our side today till SANDAKPHU.  Shirin showed us Himalyan peaks like Makalu, Lhotse, Chomo, Three sisters peak etc. Part of MT. Everest was also visible.

From Sandakphu we again entered the SANGLAILA forest and it is steep descent to TIMBURE.  Enroute we stoped to have tea/coffee at a dhaba in the woods. Toes had now started hurting  and by the time we reached GURDUM (our Lunch Point), Charoo was in great pain and reached Gurdum by 3:30 pm, thanks to the patience of Saroj and  Narender. Others had finished lunch by then. 

We quickly took our  lunch at a beautiful homestay named ‘Sherpa Himalyan Homestay’ decorated very elegantly & artistically with paintings and flower pots.

GURDUM to TIMBUREY is again steep ascent through the forest. Charoo’s toes were hurting so much that ascents were now very soothing.  It was told that shoe should be ½ size bigger if you have steep decent, but too late to know now. 

Our stay at TIMBUREY is at SYAMBHU HOMESTAY. We soon gather in the dinning room for tea, . Everyone was in happy mood, we passed our time chatting and solving Aditya’s puzzle.

Soon dinner is served in brass plates. 

After dinner we are given our Trek Completion certificates.

DAY 7 ( 17 Feb)  TIMBUREY to SIRKHOLA & drive to NJP via SEPI

Today is our last day of the trek . Got up with mixed feelings. Post breakfast we start our journey. It is gradual descent to SIRKHOLA. TTH vehicles were waiting on the other side of the bridge. All trekmates had already reached and were waiting for us. We board vehicles and moved towards NJP, stopping at SEPI to drop our trek leaders. We bid a very emotional googbye to TTH staff with the hope of meeting them again on one of the future treks. Today was a bright sunny day and we enjoy the very scenic beauty of the hills which we missed on the first day. With a relaxed mind we reach Mirik by lunchtime. All of us enjoy a lesiure lunch at a lakeside restaurant. Taking a small stroll beside the lake we head back towards NJP. We reach NJP station by 6 pm which is our drop off point. With hugs and goodbyes and beautiful memories we take leave of each other. Thus comes the end of our  SANDAKPHU TREK.

SOME BEAUTIFUL MEMORIES